Do you know what makes your anti-aging cream work? With so many products on the market, it can be difficult to suss out which products will slow the effects of time on your skin and which are smoke and mirrors, says Joshua Zeichner,MD, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in the dermatology department at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. But some ingredients, such as retinol and sunscreen, do have proven benefits, he explains. Top dermatologists say the following anti-agers are the most potent wrinkle-fighters on the market.
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B Vitamins for Healthy Skin, Hair, and Nails
These essential vitamins appear in multiple forms and complexes in Skin-care products. Yet the function of all vitamin B derivatives is the same: to convert food into energy to fuel vital body processes — including those responsible for healthy, firm skin. “Vitamin B and all its derivatives are essential for healthy skin, hair, and nails,” says Joel schlessinger MD, a dermatologist in Omaha, Nebraska.
B vitamins can be especially potent in moisturizers, Dr. Schlessinger says. When these vitamins are among the ingredients in your skin care, damaged cells will heal and regenerate more quickly. And if you’re looking to supplement your anti-aging cream, one of the best natural sources of vitamin B is bananas.
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Coenzyme Q10 to Protect Collagen
Coenzyme Q10 (vitamin Q) is a strong antioxidant that can help build the foundation needed for younger-looking skin. “Coenzyme Q10 helps protect the elastic tissue and collagen that shape your skin,” explains Jessica Wu, MD, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Southern California in Los Angeles. As we get older, our natural coenzyme Q10 levels diminish, slowing the skin’s ability to rejuvenate and protect itself from damage. To build levels of the coenzyme, many find that taking a dietary supplement in addition to using topical creams yields optimal results. There’s a bonus to coenzyme Q10 supplements, too — some researchers believe they aid in preventing heart disease.
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Copper to Prevent Sagging and Fill Wrinkles
You’re probably imagining pennies, but the copper we’re talking about is found in trace amounts in skin cells, where it binds proteins together. Essential for collagen formation, the anti-aging ingredient helps support the skin to prevent sagging and to fill in wrinkles. Clinical studies have shown that copper contributes to the clearing and renewal of fractured collagen, making it an excellent ingredient for those who wish to improve the look of sun-damaged skin and scars. “Copper is nonirritating,” explains Dr. Wu, “so it’s a good alternative for those with sensitive skin who may not be able to tolerate retinoids.”
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Green Tea to Revitalize Your Skin
You may sip a cup of warm green tea to relax, but the ancient plant from which the tea is brewed is replete with nutrients that recharge your skin. While the healing medicinal properties of the leaf redound to phytochemicals known as polyphenols, it’s the stimulant qualities that can have an energizing effect on aging skin. “Green tea has a wonderful effect on dark circles — which is especially striking when combined with caffeine in eye cream,” says Schlessinger. Green tea is also an antioxidant, meaning that it aids in preventing and repairing the damage done by oxidation, which breaks down skin cells.
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Peptides to Stimulate Collagen Production
Because of the promising results of clinical research, such as a study published in December 2018 in the international journal of peptide Research and Therapeutics, peptides are becoming increasingly popular anti-aging skin-care ingredients. Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. Most peptide creams are designed to stimulate collagen to improve the appearance of wrinkles, explains Dr. Zeichner. But not all peptide creams are created equal, so you should stick to products that have gone through clinical testing, he notes.
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Retinoids and Retinols to Speed Up Cell Turnover
Over-the-counter retinols and prescription retinoids like Retin-A are derivatives of vitamin A. “Retinoids and retinols speed up and stimulate cell turnover and collagen production for smoother and younger-looking skin,” says Wu. No other ingredient, she adds, has been more tested and proven by the medical community as an aging antidote than retinoids. But don’t expect results overnight — it takes several weeks or even months for retinol to exert its wrinkle-fighting effect, so it must be used over long periods of time, Zeichner says. Plus, retinoids and retinols can be drying, and can make you more sensitive to the sun. Use them in moderation, and counter any retinoid- or retinol-containing product with daily sunscreen use.
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Vitamin E to Reverse Damage and Rejuvenate Skin
Vitamin E is a powerhouse when it comes to reversing the type of skin damage that leads to dryness, collagen destruction, and fine lines and wrinkles. The vitamin neutralizes cell-damaging free radicals, which are triggered by environmental factors like sun exposure. “Vitamin E is a great antioxidant to look for in rejuvenating skin creams, and it can assist with wound healing as well, by strengthening the skin barrier,” says Schlessinger. This is why pure vitamin E oil remains a popular (and inexpensive) salve for cracked cuticles and scars from cuts, burns, and surgery.
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Sunscreen to Prevent Skin Cancer (and Improve Your Appearance)
Not only does sunscreen help prevent skin cancer, it’s also been shown to improve the cosmetic appearance of the face, even if used by itself, Zeichner says. In a study published in December 2016 in the journal Dermatologic Surgery, sunscreen alone applied to the face for one year resulted in improvements of cosmetic measures like skin tone, texture, and wrinkles.
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Vitamin C to Neutralize Damage and Lighten Dark Spots
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that neutralizes damage from free radicals and helps complement the effect of your sunscreen, explains Zeichner. “In the morning, I have my patients layer vitamin C underneath their sunscreen,” he says. Vitamin C also interferes with abnormal pigment production, helping to lighten dark spots, he adds.
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Hydroxy Acids to Exfoliate Dead Cells and Fight Wrinkles
Hydroxy acids like glycolic acid help exfoliate dead cells from the surface of the skin. “They’ve also been shown to stimulate collagen and improve the appearance of lines and wrinkles,” explains Zeichner. Hydroxy acids come in varying strengths, so it’s important to check with a board-certified dermatologist to find out which one is right for you.
“These tips are not from a medical expert. Make more findings and/or exercise caution if you decide to try them.”
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